May 2024 in New Caledonia: Two Young Women Caught Amid Chaos

In May 2024, New Caledonia was rocked by violent clashes, once again stirring up the long-standing debate over the island’s independence. Two young women, Thelma and Elisa, from very different backgrounds, recount their experiences during this time of unrest.

May 12 – Saint-Louis

Thelma was visiting her grandparents in Saint-Louis, a Kanak tribe near Nouméa, when she woke up on May 12 to an unsettling scene. "I went outside and saw everything burning. From the hill, I could see it all, cars, roads, buildings. Even the Décathlon store was on fire. I didn’t understand what was happening. I found my grandfather, and he said, ‘It’s war.’"

Streets were blocked, ambulances couldn’t get through, and graffiti covered the walls. A curfew followed, and French authorities deployed thousands of police and soldiers as pro-independence protesters took over the roads. Shops were emptied, barricades rose across villages, and ten days of chaos began.

Why Violence Returned

The violence in May was the result of deep-rooted political tensions. For decades, New Caledonia has been divided over the issue of independence. Many Kanak people, the indigenous population, support independence, while loyalists, descendants of French settlers, want to remain part of France. However, the situation is complex. While most Kanak back independence, some don’t agree with the more extreme actions of certain groups. Likewise, some loyalists aren’t entirely against independence but believe the island can’t survive economically without France’s support.

Three referendums between 2018 and 2021 resulted in a “no” to independence, but the last vote was boycotted by Kanak leaders, who said the COVID-19 crisis made the process illegitimate. The frustration, especially among young Kanaks, escalated into anger, setting the stage for the May 2024 uprising.

May 13 – Nouméa

The day after Thelma’s experience, Elisa, a young loyalist whose family moved to New Caledonia in the 1990s, was leaving work in Nouméa. "There were lots of young people in the streets waving Kanak flags," she recalls. On her way home, she saw teenagers setting fire to flags and trash bins. Elisa hurried to her brother-in-law’s house for dinner.

"We were checking social media, and it became clear that things were getting worse. Suddenly, we heard nearby shops being smashed. We rushed home, and I couldn’t sleep that night. It lasted for ten days, roads were blocked, and fires were everywhere. We felt the tension building, but we never thought it would get this bad. It felt like a lost generation in the streets."

Two Lives, Same Island — Different Worlds

New Caledonia’s population is a mosaic: Kanak, Caldoches (European descendants), Wallisians, Tahitians, Indonesians, Vietnamese, and mainland French. Centuries of colonial history created layered divisions that the May unrest made painfully visible.

The stories of Thelma and Elisa highlight the deep divisions in New Caledonia’s society. The population is a mix of Kanak, descendants of European settlers (known as "Caldoches"), and migrants from Oceania, Asia, and mainland France. This diversity has created a complex society with differing views on the island’s future.

For many Kanak, independence represents a chance to right historical wrongs. Thelma, as a Kanak descendant, feels connected to this fight, though she mentions her family doesn’t hold strong political views. Elisa, a loyalist, sees the drive for independence as more about identity. "They want to be recognized as the first people, but they already are," she says. However, she believes New Caledonia lacks the resources to survive on its own without French support.

Lives Upended

After the violence of May 12 and 13, life in New Caledonia slowly returned to normal, but the trauma remains fresh. Thelma, who returned to France in mid-June, recalls that time as incredibly difficult. "Leaving my family, especially my grandmother, felt like I might never see them again," she says. The day she left, a man in Saint-Louis was shot in the head. Hours later, Thelma was on a plane to France, where she overheard two tourists discussing their time on the island. "They were sad to leave. Just days before, they were enjoying the beach in Nouméa. Meanwhile, my home was being patrolled by the army."

Now back in France, Thelma reflects on the events and how they’ve changed her perspective. "I wanted to go back to New Caledonia, but now it seems crazy. The country is in crisis. I wonder, how do they still have things left to burn? People in wealthier areas are  safer, but I’m really worried for my family in the tribe."

Elisa, who stayed in New Caledonia, also feels uncertain about the future. "We’re taking it day by day," she says, describing the ongoing economic and social struggles. "I’m on partial unemployment, there’s no work, public or private. My sister is unemployed, too, after her factory was set on fire."

The situation remains tense, with a curfew in place from 10 PM to 6 AM. "If you go out, you get fined unless you have a valid reason. It makes it hard to visit friends for dinner," Elisa explains. "We’ve started having pajama parties just to adapt to the new reality."

Deep Divides, Uncertain Futures

Both Thelma and Elisa’s stories shed light on the deep social divides that persist in New Caledonia. "Even before the violence, there was a lack of unity," says Thelma. "There are also big public health problems, alcohol, cannabis, and poverty are everywhere. It’s heartbreaking to see so much inequality and injustice."

Elisa points to the frustration of the younger generation, many of whom took to the streets. "They were lied to," she says. "They were told independence was coming, but it hasn’t happened. So they keep fighting, but they don’t really know why. We’ve had three referendums, and the answer has always been ‘no.’"

For Thelma, the dream of independence remains, but she acknowledges it’s a complex issue. Elisa, on the other hand, prefers autonomy under French control.